Bib Gourmand · South Indian & Sri Lankan · Upper East Side
By Monty Khas, Anonymous Critic. Pays every bill.
The lungi is the simple wrapped cloth worn across South India and Sri Lanka, and the restaurant that takes its name is just as unpretentious. Lungi, on First Avenue on the Upper East Side, is owned by Mervyn Winston and chef Albin Vincent, who grew up in Kanyakumari at the southern tip of India, where South Indian and Sri Lankan cooking meet. Michelin has named it a Bib Gourmand two years running, in 2024 and 2025, a first for a Sri Lankan restaurant in New York, and in 2026 the New York Times gave it two stars.
The vibe
Lungi is a relaxed neighborhood restaurant, warm and welcoming, that's equally good for a quick lunch or a long dinner with friends. It's open for both, seven days a week.
What to eat
Start with hoppers, the bowl-shaped Sri Lankan rice pancakes with crisp, lacy edges and a soft center. A mutton roll, breaded and fried, makes a perfect snack, and Curry Leaf Cauliflower 65 is a crunchy, spicy crowd-pleaser.
The dosas are textbook, and the masala dosa, filled with spiced potato, is a great benchmark. But the dish to order is the black short rib kari. Sri Lankan black curry gets its color from dark-roasted spices, and here it coats short rib that's been cooked until it's spoon-tender. It's deeply spiced, a little smoky and unforgettable.
Kothu roti is Sri Lanka's favorite street food, flatbread chopped and stir-fried on a griddle with egg, vegetables and your choice of protein. It's loud to make and wildly comforting to eat. For something celebratory, the chicken lamprais, a Dutch-Sri Lankan rice dish baked in banana leaf, is a feast in a parcel. Kerala beef chukka and chicken Chettinad bring big South Indian flavors too.
Sunday banana leaf meal
On Sundays at lunch, Lungi serves its banana leaf special meal, a spread of rice, curries and sides on a banana leaf, eaten the traditional way. It's one of the best weekend lunches in Manhattan.
Before you go
Reservations are on Resy. Weekend dinners get busy, so book ahead or come for lunch.
Why it matters
Sri Lankan cooking is still rare in New York, and Lungi gives it a proper stage, next to the South Indian food it's so closely linked to. It's generous, thoughtful and fairly priced, exactly what a Bib Gourmand should be.
The Quick Fix
What to order: Hoppers; masala dosa; mutton roll; Curry Leaf Cauliflower 65; black short rib kari; kothu roti; chicken lamprais; Kerala beef chukka; Sunday banana leaf special meal
Pricing: Mid-range, and real Bib Gourmand value.
Best for: Sri Lankan and South Indian food lovers, Sunday lunch, families and Upper East Side locals
How it compares: NYC's best Sri Lankan; more relaxed and easier to book than Semma; the black short rib kari has no rival in town
See where Lungi ranks: The Best Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi Restaurants in New York City: Our Top 10 for 2026
The food was always this good. We're just paying attention.