NYT Restaurant List 2023 · Kerala · Avondale
By Monty Khas, Anonymous Critic. Pays every bill.
Thattu means plate in Malayalam, the language of Kerala, and the name fits a restaurant that feels like being fed at a friend's home. Tucked into a modern room in Avondale, Thattu serves the coconut-rich, curry-leaf-scented cooking of India's southwestern coast, and it has become one of the most celebrated restaurants in Chicago.
The people
Chef Margaret Pak and her husband, Vinod Kalathil, who grew up in Kerala, started Thattu as a stall in the Politan Row food hall in 2019. Pak, a Korean American chef, cooks Kerala food with deep respect and a few personal touches of her own. Thattu has since grown into its own sit-down restaurant, and the accolades followed: the New York Times named it to its 2023 Restaurant List, and Eater called it one of the 12 best new restaurants in America that year.
The room
The dining room is bright and welcoming, with colorful art on the walls and stainless-steel plates that nod to Kerala home cooking. It's a neighborhood spot at heart, and it's open for dinner Thursday through Sunday.
What to eat
Start with kappa bonda, crispy fritters made with cassava, a Kerala staple, and the beet puff, flaky pastry with a spiced beet filling. Kadala curry, a black chickpea curry rich with coconut, is the dish to order with appam, the soft, lacy rice pancakes with crisp edges that are perfect for scooping.
Meen pollichathu, fish wrapped and cooked with a fiery masala, is a Kerala classic done right, and the pork chop peralan, a bone-in chop in a dry, spiced coconut masala with collard greens and a yucca cake, is a showstopper. Finish with Korean black rice pudding, a nod to Pak's own heritage, and a cup of kaapi, South Indian filter coffee.
Before you go
Thattu is at 2601 West Fletcher Street. It's open Thursday through Sunday for dinner, reservations are available online and the restaurant doesn't accept cash, so bring a card.
Why it matters
Kerala cooking is rarely found in the Midwest, and Thattu serves it with heart and skill. It's proof that some of the most exciting restaurants come from the most personal stories.
The Quick Fix
What to order: Kappa bonda; beet puff; kadala curry with appam; meen pollichathu; pork chop peralan; Korean black rice pudding; kaapi
Pricing: Mid-range. Generous, homestyle portions.
Best for: South Indian food lovers, vegetarians, date nights, small groups and anyone curious about Kerala cooking
How it compares: Chicago's only dedicated Kerala restaurant; more homestyle than Nadu's regional tour; the appam and kadala curry are the best on this list
See where Thattu ranks: The Best Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi Restaurants in Chicago: Our Top 10 for 2026
The food was always this good. We're just paying attention.